Weaving Sustainability into Fashion: Miriam Borcherdt’s Innovative PhD Journey

Miriam Borcherdt’s academic and professional path intertwines the worlds of fashion, sustainability, and research in a compelling narrative.

Her journey at RMIT began 12 years ago with sessional teaching in the School of Fashion and Textiles, while simultaneously managing her own fashion label.

In 2022, she embarked on her PhD, aiming to integrate her dual passions for design and sustainable practices.

“Starting my PhD felt like a natural progression to intertwine these areas more deeply,” Miriam explained.

The decision to pursue a PhD was driven by a desire to extend her focus beyond the creation of garments and into the influences that shape the broader processes of how fashion is made.

“I reached a point where I wanted to engage with fashion beyond making things by testing processes like garment remanufacturing on a larger scale,” she says.

“The PhD provided a platform to explore broader systemic issues in the fashion industry, allowing me to focus on sustainability in a more impactful way.”

One of the highlights of Miriam’s PhD journey has been her 12-month internship with Country Road, investigating how redesign and remanufacturing can help transition fashion businesses to a circular model. .

This industry collaboration has involved redesigning surplus stock to reintroduce it into circulation and testing circular economy strategies within a large-scale business.

As part of this collaboration, a redesign capsule collection was launched in three Country Road stores in November 2024.

The collection is comprised of redesigned and remanufactured garments from past season Country Road clothing.

Working closely with the Country Road Womenswear design and development team, Miriam experimented with various remanufacturing techniques to develop innovative 'redesign strategies' that could be integrated into Country Road’s long-term circular design approach.

“The project has allowed me to test ideas within a large business context, highlighting obstacles and potential strategies for implementing circular economy practices,” she said.

Photography: Anika Kafcaloudis

Throughout the process, Miriam has faced some challenges with navigating the conflicting requirements of aligning educational and commercial outcomes.

She said this required “Adapting my communication to fit different contexts, whether research, small-scale fashion practices, or mass market”.

Her supervisors have played a crucial role in shaping her research, guiding her to focus on emerging questions and maintaining a manageable scope.

“My supervisors have been instrumental in both broadening and narrowing my research focus, helping me explore new questions while keeping the scope feasible,” Miriam says.

Photography: Anika Kafcaloudis

For prospective HDR students, Miriam offers this advice: “Creating pathways between research and practice can be challenging, but the PhD framework is very supportive.

“Engaging with industry can shape research to address real-world issues and test ideas in various contexts.

“Connecting with a community of practitioners and researchers makes the process more engaging and fulfilling.”

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RMIT University acknowledges the people of the Woi wurrung and Boon wurrung language groups of the eastern Kulin Nation on whose unceded lands we conduct the business of the University. RMIT University respectfully acknowledges their Ancestors and Elders, past and present. RMIT also acknowledges the Traditional Custodians and their Ancestors of the lands and waters across Australia where we conduct our business - Artwork 'Sentient' by Hollie Johnson, Gunaikurnai and Monero Ngarigo.

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